L’Ardia di San Costantino: “the” horse race in Sardinia

Steady, ready, go! Here in Sedilo on July 5-7,  a fab horse race and festival will take place! If you are in Sardinia you can’t miss this rural and intese festival out!

A tip for summer tourists who loves traditional festivals and are in the heart of Sardinia: go and celebrate one of the biggest festivals in Sardinia. It is “L’ardia di San Costantino“, and this fest commemorates Constantine’s victory over Maxentious at the Mulvian Bridge in 312. Here Constantine saw a flaming cross with this written on: “in this sign thou shall conquer”.

Every year on July 5th through July 7th, outside Sedilo’s eastern boundary, a enormous horse race is held on the grounds of the Santuario di San Costantino.

On the evening of the race event, everybody gathers on a hill outside the sanctuary. After a call for defending christianity and prayers, he horses started their run and the riders  represents Constantine charge, his two flag bearers, and the thundering herd close behind.

When the riders reach the Sanctuary, they will stop in a circle, getting blessed by the priest each time they pass the front gate. They need to do seven times, but  Constantine, who takes off after the sixth pass! All then runs to the dry fountain and this is the end of the race. Only one person each year is allowed to play Constantine’s character for the race: he has received a special “dispensation” from God.

An open field hosts the festival while tasty pigs rotate in wood fired ovens !

The next morning the race is run for the locals. After the race everyone goes down to the priest’s house to drink vernaccia (the local wine) and pastry.

So are you ready to merge into the rural Sardinia and discover one of the most ancient horse race in Italy? If so, pack everything and fly over!

 

Matera’s Festa della Madonna Bruna: in early July a sparkling fest

Matera’s Festa della Madonna Bruna is on
July 2nd and it is a spectacular fireworks spectacle.

This pearl is located in Italy’s Basilicata region and Matera has a special celebration on the second of July called the Festa della Madonna Bruna, one of the most interesting summer festivals in Italy. The town was pretty famous all around the world for its sassi.

They are very peculiar buildings, builded up inside the rock. White rocks all over where the peasants use to get to defende themselves from the hot sun, and where also the cattle did find a useful shed. Wheater in Basilicata can be very very warm and lovely!  Eating here is another discovery that you must try out! Pasta, pizza and particular dessert like biscotti, bread which is coming directly from the farmer table as usual in southern Italy.

This town where Pasolini directed  “Il Vangelo Secondo Matteo”, a masterpiece of Italian Cinema back in the ’70, shows us its own beauty throughout this festival: the streets are going to be decorated with festive lights, the”sassi will see then the parade of costumed men on horses called the Knights of Santa Maria della Bruna. Then in the night a float will come by. Created out of paper maché by local artisans,  it will make the whole route through the town.

Also a fake fight opposing guard and youth will displayed. The youth, representing rebirth, had to fight agais the old, established status quo. The devotion to the brown Madonna is not uncommon in the south of Italy, though.
Fireworks in Matera are really a big show to see.  The Festa of the brown Madonna will be in Matera and among the other things

Lost in Venice in May, between daydreams and reality

The Venice wandering around like modern fleuners! What is to see and do in the city? Don’t get overwhelmed!Among beautiful and important event like the Biennale d’arte di Venezia and The Festival del Cinema di venezia, the famous Carnival and 1000 concerts and attractions we can give a couple of useful advice for the tourist that has no time and little money!

Are you visiting Venice? Well, just get lost!  Wandering through the streets and alleys is gorgeous, ending up in this sort of  sentimental and romantic journey through this enchanted town in often-empty squares and streets. or it happens just to follow a street that finishes in a canal! A dead end of striking beauty on the water!  After this going around for “le calli” just ask directions or check the map to go to St. Mark’s Basilica, one of the most famous church in the country and in the world.  onion domes and multi-colored marble pillars, and the interior is floor-to-ceiling mosaics. There are three smaller museums within the basilica which you’ll have to pay an entry to see; your budget and overall interest should dictate whether you visit all of them, but if you’re just going to pick one then by all means take the narrow and steep staircase in the entry alcove up to the museum that has the original horses which used to overlook the square – in addition to seeing the horses, you’ll also get to go out on the roof and overlook the square yourself.

The piazza, Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) is of a gorgeous beauty outside and it is even better night time when nobody is around! oR just walk through on your way to th vaporetto or the train early morning. Venice isn’t a nightlife town, so you will have the chance to see it without the huge mass of people that usually swirled around on the day time. Or take a great view of St. Mark’s Square from the roof of St. Mark’s Basilic: it is easy to do, buying a ticket for the short elevator ride to the top of the Campanile.

A lovely trip to do is the Grand Canal Tour in vaporetto, the Venice’s water-buses! and then Just go further and watch a Glass-Blowing Demonstration in Murano Island! Just walk around the streets of this island pretty close to Venice, pop over in an open studio and enjoy!

Another “must-do” tour  is the one that involves The Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace): yes, it has an hefty admission fee but it includes the walk over the Ponte dei sospiri (Bridge of Sighs).

Finally, go and buy food at The Rialto market, well-known as a fish market, with a plenty of fresh veggies and fruit for sale as well.

 

Florence in April: Culture Week and markets

A spring holiday in Florence: can you imagine the mildest days ever? Renaissance fleur, farmers’ markets and art: Accademia and Uffizi galleries are open for you! Nice to discover also treasures from Egyptian expeditions for free at the Museo Archeologico in the Palazzo della Crocetta (Via della Colonna). Or why don’t you check the Galileo’s original telescope at the Arno riverfront Museo di Storia della Scienza in Palazzo Castellani? Nice also the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo behind the cathedral.
If you are really interested in home made artisans’ masterpiece, you should come to Florence in Spring time!!! The exhibition centre behind Fortezza da Basso’s battlement walls are open to host the Mostra Internazionale dell’Artigianato. Ceramic pieces and handmade dress jewellery are in the stalls during April’s last week.

Fun will be also to go to San Lorenzo street market: loads of discounts on leather prices. During your spring holiday in Florence will be interesting also to join the Antique Fiorentino fair in Piazza Santo Spirito: it will be held on the second Sunday of every month where over 100 stalls gather. Honey and herbs instead are the stars in the Fierucola farmers’ market on the third Sunday of the month.
April means the start of two months of melody for the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino music festival. Symphony performances entertain music addicted at the Teatro Comunale municipal theatre. The “melomani”, the opera lover will meet at Teatro Piccolo.

Go to Boboli Gardens where camellias bloom, or go to the Bardini Gardens, among the restored Renaissance statues and parfumed in the scents of  flowering wisteria. The Botanical Gardens are free tor a walk among ancient oaks. A spring holiday in Florence on an old boat or barchetti on the River Arno will be more than a treat!

The Culture Week, or The Settimana delle Beni Culturali is a week for free-pass in all the public museums and monuments: in florence you will see for free the Accademia and the Bargello!

 

April and Italy: nice match!

Discovering Italy in springtime, discovering the funniest tradition and the best places to visit! for example,Venice has a lovely tradition of coffee shops called le Botteghe del Caffè. You can trace back up to 1759 when almost 206 coffe shops ruled! Too many and  the Republic stopped the spread of them making a ban!

The survivors are in Saint Mark Square, and the most famous had the Venezia Trionfante (Triumphant Venice) as sign! It has been built in 1720 by Floriano Francescani, and people called it the Floriàn. Today it is open: go there for a coffee to taste in the same rooms where  Giacomo Casanova, Wolfgang Goethe, Lord Byron and George Sand went!

Let’s expore all the less known but lovely fairs and celebration that take place in Italy!

It will be nice also to go and celebrate Rome‘s birthday: the date of Rome’s founding (in 753BC) is on April 21 so if you’re in Rome, check it out for festivals, concerts, and special events. Fireworks display will be over the Tiber River and also you can cross gladiator shows around the forum area.

For funny fairs, we can advice the Palio della Rana, (golden frog race), on the Sunday after Easter in the town of Fermignano located in the beautiful Marche region. The race with frogs is with the animals put in tiny wheelbarrows. The day before the race,  a pageant in historical costume and a fireworks show take place in Fermingnano.

Another funny one is The Race of the Ring, La Corsa all’anello, held in Narni in the Umbria region. The celebration is held the last week of April, that is a medieval jousting competition, with three horsemen trying to snare rings.

San Biagio, the patron saint of Avetrana in southern Puglia, is celebrated with a 2-day festival starting from April 28. You will enjoy bands, food, street fair, and a religious procession.

In Caresana (Piedmont region) we have Saint George’s Day, the patron saint of farmworkers, on April 23, celebrated with the Palio dei Buoi. It is a parade of floats pulled by oxen.

 

What to bring in Spring time in Italy? Mind the luggage

Spring time: meaning it is time to have a vacation and go to Italy! But what to bring in Italy in Spring time? This transition period from one extreme cold weather  to another extreme hot one, in Italy is tricky, if you travel there: so what to pack for Italy travel in spring or fall? What is appropriate and what ?

First: the weather forescast! The weather in Italy during the Spring and fall is a bit crazy and changeable, so be prepared for quick changes and bring things that serve diverse purposes.

Second: the magic packing list! Layering your clothing is the key to packing for the shoulder seasons. Let’s think specifically:

  1. To deal with rain more than with cold draghts. You will need a water-resistant jacket or a light coat.
  2.  Having a scarf or a shawl is good if it might get chilly.
  3.  The Spring is a shoulder seasons and not that dry. Having shoes that are water resistant can avoid the annoying phenomenon known as “wet socks”.
  4. The comfort of  slippers after a long day of walking has no prize. Please do remeber to bring one pair with you and you will thank me.
  5. Rainy Spring and windproof umbrella can beat the sudden rainstorms in Italy. Put one inside your backpack!
  6. Shielding you from rain and  sun is important. Use a nice hat! On the same line, another important element will be the sunglasses. Avoid the sunburn on vacation. Bring your favourite sunscreen or buy it in Italy!
  7. Again for the sun and the sudden hot weather bring with you  a small paper fan.

Do not forget to bring some “church appropriate” clothes. Many Basilica or churches have strict dress code: your shoulders, knees, midriffs, and (ladies) cleavage shold be hidden. A light shawl can help, as well a lightweight trousers or a long skirt, to enter the holy places in Italy.

April in Venice: warmth, jogging and festivals

Venice in spring: a perfect place for jogging and going around to discover the beauty of an astonishing town!

Venice has a unique fleur: no cars, no smog, no slope, just some bridges. In the early morning no one are in the streets and you can discover the Fondamenta delle Zattere, 1400 meters long, with 5 bridges, in front of the Giudecca Island. A nice route is also the Riva dei Sette Martiri, between  the Arsenale and San Marco, with the Biennale Gardens and Sant Elena Park.
Tourists tend to come in squad to Venice in April: a “wild” choice of classical music concerts is always “a la carte”, and in the mid-April  it will wait for you and your family the Culture Week.

Actually, the Settimana delle Beni Culturali is a week which is a celebration all over Italy: public museums and monuments are open for free and, sometimes, for longer hours! This is an occasion to take!

Some museums in Venice  participate to the Culture Week including the Accademia, the Ca d’Oro, and the Archeological Museums. The week almost always happens in April, but check the Beniculturali website for the dates.

April 25 is both the Festa di San Marco and the Liberation Day for Italy: Saint Mark is the famous Venice’s patron saint, and he is celebrates with a gondoliers’ regatta.

A lot of  commemorations of the saint will be at Saint Mark’s Basilica, and celebration in Saint Mark’s Square. In the tradition also has been written that the Saint Mark’s Day is the day on which men give their wives or girlfriends the “bocolo,”meaning  the bloom of the red rose. Often Venetian boys give a single rosebud to their mothers on this day, which  also is the anniversary for Italy and  Venice free from the World War II.

Easter and Holy Week in Sardinia: ancient and Christian rituals


Holy week rituals are still really vivid in Sardinia. For example, in Cagliari 3 brotherhoods, belonging to the town’s quarters, lead the processions.

The Easter Mysteries plays are an heritage of the Spanish domination  and it starts with the blessing of the palms  at a solemn mass on Palm Sunday. Rituals are enriched by the polyphonic choirs (Cantori), performing ancient songs with lyrics about Christ’s passion with the music technique called faburden or fauxbourdon.

The Confraternity of the Holy Crucifix held the first procession on the Friday before Palm Sunday: seven 18th century statues are brought to seven other churches in town. The Confraternita della Solitudine on the Holy Friday will go from the Church of San Giacomo with the statues of Christ and the Virgin to the Cathedral. On Easter Monday, 2 different processions will bring the statues of Christ and the Virgin who will be meet in front of the church.

On Easter Sunday, on the church altars you will see small vases, called Su Nenniri, full of flowers and grains grown in the dark with a wonderful, intense emerald green color.  Symbols of rebirth and resurrection they are from the ancient pagan cult of the God Adonis.

The Alghero Easter Rituals includes the mystery plays, which are performed in the churches located in the ancient quarter by the 16th century brotherhood (the Jermans Blancs or Conraternita della Misericordia), which will sing ancient songs in Catalan. The first procession “de las damas” on Friday evening on the week before Easter includes a parade of women dressed in black clothes carring the Virgin from the church of San Francesco across the narrow alleys of the old town. On Good Friday the statue of Christ has brought from the Misericordia Church to the altar’s Cathedral for the Ceremony of the alburament. In the afternoon the mass “missa-fugi-fugi” in the Cathedral will be held before another procession through the old town. In the night procession, pilgrims and the brothers will hold lit candles all wrapped in red paper (“farols”).

Lunisanti at Easter is a ritual held in Castelsardo on the night of Holy Monday. In Santa Maria di Tergu, located in the countryside outside Castelsardo, you will see the mystery plays and mass, and then from there a long parade goes to the old town bastion wall, and goes back to the church where everybody has lunch. In the late afternoon the procession leaves the church again to go back into town: here only candles and lamps are lit along the streets. The brotherhood Confraternita di S. Croce in their long white hooded tunics will in two choirs of 24 members each (the Cantori and the Apustuli), singing  medieval songs.

 

The Holy Easter Week is coming in Italy

holy week rituals Easter is lovely and true opportunity for families to reunite around a gorgeous and rich table, and enjoy food and ancient tradition connected to rebirth and religious rituals.

Rome is “the” Italian destination for Easter week, called in Italian “Settimana Santa”, with the manifold events linked to the Pope in Vatican City and around Rome.

Easter Week starts always on Palm Sunday (Domenica delle Palme): a special mass is led by the Pope in Saint Peter’s Square. This event is free,but the square will be very crowded and it is hard to get in. If you want to see the Vatican Palm Sunday mass, you should be there very, very early. Also you have to know that it is not unusual just to stand up for hours so bring a little chair with you and water. The Blessing of the Palms, the Procession, and the Holy Mass for Palm Sunday are all in the morning starting at 9:30 am, and they will be held in Saint Peter’s Square.

The Holy Thursday Mass will take place in the Saint Peter’s Basilica at 9:30 am. A Papal Mass is also led  in the Basilica of Saint John Lateran usually at 5:30 pm.
On Easter Monday (in Italian “La Pasquetta”) is a free time for everybody. Nor schools neither work, and it is time to go around and visit somebody or going out with some friends to have a picnic or a nice gathering for a chit-chat. So a lot of Italian cities displays dances, free concerts, or games involving the use and the abuse of… eggs!

In the Umbrian medieval town of Panicale, cheese is istead one of the main tools of gaming. “Ruzzolone” is in fact a funny and strange game. You will play by rolling huge wheels of cheese (about 4 kilos) around the village walls. But why such an effort? The main goal is to get your cheese around using the fewest number of strokes. The cheese contest is folowed by a band in the piazza. Rivers of wine make the effort even more difficult and funnier!

 

In Italy Easter is traditional

No Easter bunny? Then you’re in Italy for Easter holidays, my dear.

The Italian Easter celebrations  (“Pasqua” in Italian), has a lot of rituals and traditions to understand and enjoy. The Monday following Easter (la Pasquetta) is also a holiday in Italy. Over the weeks before Easter, in Italy  you can assist to a lot of processions and masses.
Good Friday and Easter Week Processions are held in many towns on the Friday or Saturday before Easter.

Many churches have special statues of the Virgin and Jesus put out only on these occasions, meaning in the Easter processions. Parade participants are often dressed up in traditional ancient costumes. Lots of Via Crucis are displayed all over Italy! Olive branches are often used instead of or along with palm fronds.

The oldest Good Friday procession in Italy? Probably it is the one held in Chieti,  Abruzzo region. The procession with Miserere played by 100 violins is very touching. If you are in Abruzzo, then go to Sulmona and celebrates Easter together with La Madonna Che Scappa in Piazza (The escaping Virgin). On Easter Sunday you will dress in green and white, because they are the colors of peace, hope, and resurrection, and you will meet with so many people coming from all the region in the main piazza. A woman will play the Virgen Mary and she will be dressed in black. She moves to the fountain and doves are released and the woman will change the dress wearing the colour green.

Enna, in Sicily, promotes a large procession on Good Friday; more than 2,000 friars dressed in ancient costumes! And Trapani has a Good Friday procession that lasts 24 hours!
The biggest and most popular Easter mass? If you are in Rome you can’t miss the Pope helding it at St. Peter’s Basilica. On Good Friday, the Pope celebrates the Via Crucis near the Colosseum.

In Florence, on Easter it has been displayed for centuries the Scoppio del Carro (literally, the explosion of the cart).

A huge, decorated cart goes through Florence, dragges by white oxen until it reaches Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence’s historic center. The Archbishop then will send a dove-shaped rocket into the cart, starting the fireworks held inside. A parade in medieval costumes follows the symbolic explosion into the Spring.