1 day in Pisa, Tuscany

Pisa CC BY-SA 2.0 Greg Men

Pisa is so small that can be easily visited in one day tour, or even half day. Often comes together with other towns (like San Gimignano or Volterra) as part of a single itinerary with its start from Florence. The advice is to stay there, look for an apartment from a website like this, web site.

The most famous monument of Pisa is undoubtedly the Leaning Tower. 56mt tall and with an inclination of almost 4mt, is one of the most photographed monuments around the world. Since few years has been re-opened again to the visitors: it can be climbed up to the top, booking a 15 Euro ticket. But make sure to not suffer from dizziness because once reached the top of the tower, the feeling of being thrown outside is very real. Moreover go up through all the 300 steps (293 exactly) with such incline is not an easy effort (for that reason the climbing of the tower is not allowed for kids under 8 ears age). Time of staying is limited: to climb up, make a couple of pictures and come down must not exceed 30mins.
In Piazza dei Miracoli square as much impressing and charming are the Dome of Pisa, date back to 1064, and the Baptistery, slightly more recent (1152). This one is the biggest baptistery of Italy.

If you fancy a cappuccino there is a nice bar just at the corner of the square.

Once finished with the square, the advice is “to get lost” across the rest of the town. Many churches, squares and monuments will be waiting for you, in a city really on human scale.

If you want “breath” some cultural fresh air, go by Piazza dei Cavalieri, where you will find the Scuola Superiore Normale di Pisa (simply called “The Normale”), in other words one of the more prestigious and antique university of Italy (date back to 1810, funded by Napoleon). From here, through the years have been coming out cultural genius and still today has a recognized reputation, especially for the literature education.

The favourite period for visiting Pisa? Indeed June, for the ideal weather and furthermore because the two main city events are held on this month.

The game of the bridge

Like all the celebrations and historic reenactments, for the nonresident could be odd fully understand the rules of the game that take place on Ponte di Mezzo the last Saturday of June.
In the same way as it happens with the Contrade of Siena, the atmosphere around the neighborhoods could seem excessively hot, as hotter as a football stadium: in this case are called Mezzogiorno and Tramontana. It’s enjoyable observing the participation of the city to this race, which consist of pushing a cart along a railway, located over the bridge. Impressive the historic parade that take place before the race too.

La Luminara di San Ranieri

Another unmissable event is the Luminara (or Luminaria), that usually take place the 16th of June, the day before of the Patron Saint Day of Pisa: Saint Ranieri. The Arno river become the main character of an unique show: the building alongside the river get transformed for the event in a way you cannot even imagine. All the windows and window sills of each single palace will host few lights, which at the sunset will transform Pisa in a fairy tale city. 120000 candles are estimated to be used and in fact occur many hours and men to make it possible. Furthermore there are awesome fireworks show, stands and music that embrace the entire town.

CC BY-SA 3.0, Lucarelli

If more than just “old things” you wish to have an insight about contemporary Pisa side, not far away from rail station (you can go by walk), do not miss the murals of Keith Haring. Painted back on 1989, just before his death, thanks to the obstinacy of a young Pisa guy who managed to convince the famous pop artist to leave a piece of his art in the city walls.
If you have a car and it’s sunny, make the itinerary a bit longer, you can reach the coast (about 20 minutes). From there you have a double choice: southward for a bath in the sea, otherwise toward the Arno outlet to see the fishing with “retoni” (translated ad big net). You can rent a ride by boat to watch this original kind of fishing technique, passed down years by years.

CC BY-SA 2.0, Pom Angers

How to get to Pisa

From Florence there are scheduled trains (about 1hr) and bus (included the Ryanair one). The cost of the train ticket is reasonably cheap (not more than 10 Euro).

By car is even faster, depends on traffic, with the free highway “Firenze-Pisa-Livorno”. But watch out to not get a fine for exceeding speed limits. There are plenty of speed machines along the way.

Eating in Friuli: mix white wines and dreams

CC BY 2.0, Achilli Family

Friuli is a region which has an exciting discovery for every wine-lover! Why is so famous? Friuli region has a world-wide reputation for producing Italy’s best white wines.  The north east corner of Italy, bordering Slovenia and Austria, until the end of the First World War was part of the Austro–Hungarian empire.ot only San Daniele and frico to delight you and your family. Not only Udine and Trieste, the gorgeous capital with a lot of osterie and restaurant, pubs and agriturismo, not to mention a famous University! Tradition and modernity, the Austrian borders and a different sense of being Italian here make a magic environment where the tourist can breath still a genuine and sane feeling of countryside and peasant life, though wild nature and breathtaking mountains.

Here in friuli the masters of wine creates bouquet with marvellous fruity grapes that thanks to some peculiar conditions of the ground and the soil mix it up in a miracle!
Among the grapes that are grown here, white wines represent almost two-thirds of production. The Colli Orientali are smart hillside well-known for the incredible whites: the traditional varieties such as Tocai Friulano, Picolit, Ribolla Gialla and Verduzzo are produced here as well as the international varieties (Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Chardonnay). With a lovely minerality underlying the fruit, rich in taste and complex.

Are any reds here? Of course. Friuli-Venezia Giulia wines are mostly white, as to be said and underlined, but we can also add that exceptional reds can be found at the same time. Do not forget that Friuli Grave is in fact a totally red wine area. The range varies from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to Merlot, Schiopettino and Refosco. The red wine varieties are decidedly cool-climate and this is why you can still find “un buon rosso” in this almost white wine land.

It is amazing to think that even though Friuli is a tiny region compared to Tuscany or Piedmont, and  the wines produced on its high hills and mountains are indeed only 2% of the overall Italy’s production, those wines (especially the whites) are truly comparable to the great wines produced in above mentioned Piedmont and Tuscany!!!

You need to Come over and immerge yourself in the beauty of Carso and Udine!

The local wines are rich and incredibly diverse and differentiate thanks to the number of grape varieties that are used in their blends. The creation of exceptional wines is quite a tradition, kept as a precious secret by the local winemakers.

The famous white wine produced in this region is the Tocai Friulano. A little curiosity: in order to avoid confusion that sometimes aroused between a Hungarian grape called Tokaj and a French wine called Tokay, the EU has asked to change the names for the French and Friuli grapes in 2006.

Which are the other fab local whites? Besides Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, worthy to try is Müller-Thurgau. You have to try also  the great Ribolla Gialla, the famous Riesling Italiaco and Riesling Renano, not to mention the extraordinary Traminer Aromatico. A note deserves Malvasia Istriana, to taste with the Adriatic seafood recipes.

Among the red produced in Friuli – Venezia Giulia we need to mention the variety you can find in Collio (Collio Cabernet), Merlot, Pignolo, Pinot Nero, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Tazzelenghe

Some interesting  infos for a unique red wine: Terrano is a wine made with the Refosco grape grown in characteristic red soil of Carso. The specific gradient of the sun and the soil of the Carso area  make a red wine low in alcohol, prescribed by doctors to heal digestive problems as well as to patients who need iron!!!

So not only tasty but also good to help you in some health problems. The food of the Gods is here in Friuli!

Where to go with mom and daddy in Italy: when you have kids with you

Lake Garda CC BY 2.0, mfotino

Italy is a choice for all the international folk who want a better chance to taste wine, pasta and the fantastic Italian landscape in every season. But where to go if you have children? All good places for a family v are listed in this post: we want you happy with your child travelling to Italy.

Let’s start from a very beautiful place in Umbria hills: the towns here such as the holy  and medieval Assisi with its fantastic Woodland Park dedicated to san francis, the chocolate favourite Perugia are generally small enough to not be intimidating and kids enjoy exploring the stone arches and alleyways and the medieval atmosphere. The Umbria region also has a large lake where to rest and engage your kids in water sports and lovely runs on the shores.

If you travel on the coast, eastern side, you can’t miss Rome: with ancient ruins, parks, ghostly  places, and even a museum dedicated to the kids, Rome is for sure a lovely and  good family destination. Around Italy there are plenty of manors and castles to visit and it is a  funny activity for children: from Castello d’Otranto in Puglia up to the Estensi castle in Ferrara and the Paolo and Francesca’s sad story you can live again  Malatestian Rocca di Gradara in Romagna!

And please go to Florence: it is smaller than you think and you can walk serene with children inside the city centre which is gorgeous!

When your kids get bored with all the museums and monuments, just let them free in the piazza and buy a fab icecream or bring them to the medieval fairs around Italy!

At night instead of choosing a city location, stayi on a farm in Italy! Totally family-friendly,  the farm lodging ranges from pretty rustic to 5 stars staying! A room in a farm house could be a bed and breakfast or a self-catering rooms. If you are around with small children it is the ideal solutions. Tuscany and Umbria are fab places to look for an affordable agriturismo while Puglia is pretty famous for its incredible a masserie, as we already wrote about here.

 

The park of Monsters, wonders and Gods in Bomarzo

Bomarzo monster head CC BY-NC 2.0, genibee

Which is an amazing location almost unknown to the main tour guide, yet totally worth a trip? Our answer is Bomarzo Monster Park! It is located in northern Lazio and it  is a pretty interesting and strange park where to bring children and kids. Disseminated inside the park a number of statue resembling some mythological creatures that you and your family will find incredible.  There are a collection of wonders and monsters creating a fabulous yet greatly spooky atmosphere. Bomarzo Monster Park is near the border of the Umbria and a good starting point coming from Rome in the central regions. Let’s explore and taste the mysterious taste coming from this Reinassance location.

Why has somebody decided to built this? The park of Monsters of Bomarzo was an idea of Pirro Ligorio. the architect who finished the Cathedral of Saint Peter in Rome after the death of Michelangelo! He built also the glorious Villa d’Este in Tivoli. Why did an important architect ake the commision? Prince Pier Francesco Orsini (1523-1585), called Vicino, asked him to. He was a “condottiero” ( captain) and patron of the arts. When his heart got broken at the death of his beloved wife Giulia Farnese, to commemorate her memory he wanted this fantastic park.

The sculptures are majestic and enormous, born from the hands of Simone Moschino. Some of them dwelling between mythology and fantasy are sculpted in the bedrock, a predominantly natural figure in the barren landscape. The park was ready in 1552 and the “Villa of Wonders” was left in oblivion till 1954. During the 19th  and 20th centuries the garden remained neglected, almost wild. But a big revival was about to hit this extraordinary yet forgotten location: in the 1970s a program of restoration was pushed by the owners, the Bettini family, and the garden with the statues is becoming a major tourist attraction in the area, though it is still private property.

The park of Bomarzo aims to astonish the audience and its symbolism is still nowadays for a modern tourist somehow quiet  arcane and magical: the large sculpture of Hannibal ‘s war elephants are giants and one mangles a Roman legionary. The statue of Ceres is on the bare ground, with a vase of veggie on her head.

The reason for the layout and design of the garden? Nobody can’t give a precise clue. Maybe the statues were meant to reproduce the perfect symmetry of the great Renaissance gardens nearby at Villa Farnese and Villa Lante. If you get here you can’t miss a visit to the little Casa Pendente (“Leaning House”) a sort of watch tower totally leaning to a side!!!

The many monstrous statues are put around pretty randomly. Why? Maybe the reason is engraved in one of the obelisks on which we can read the motto sol per sfogare il Core (“just to set the heart free”).

The suggestions and influences of the Bomarzo Park are interesting in the modern times: the surrealistic fleur of the “Parco dei Mostri” stroke Jean Cocteau and the great painter Salvador Dalí , who loved discussing it. The French artist Niki de Saint Phalle drew a direct inspiration when she created in the ’70 her Tarot Garden, the beautiful Giardino dei Tarocchi, another location on the northen Lazio to visit and enjoy with your family.
The love-story behind Bomarzo and the life of Pier Francesco Orsini are thetopic of  Bomarzo (1962), a novel by Manuel Mujica Láinez.   The Argentinian writer wrote a libretto based on his novel, and  the opera Bomarzo was in Washington in 1967: the Argentine government labelled it as sexually offensive.

 

The Italian lakes: breath-taking landscapes

Foro Romano public domain , Joyborg
Italy and its lakes: a great location for couples and families, and unforgettable destinations to keep in mind and explore on vacation. Going to visit an Italian lago it is extremely easy. You need only to choose a region and you will find a lake!!!

Our trip starts with Lake Como, Italy’s most popular “lago” and a top destination also for internazional VIPs. A lovely temperate weather, waits for you at Lake Como any time of year. The lake is embraced by a number of fantastic villas and resort villages as well as hiking paths. What to do once you get there? A romantic boat trip, some water activities, and bird-watching.

Lake Garda is the largest among Italian lakes. The surroundings are amazing: medieval castles and breath-taking promenades on the shoreline. The different landscapes invite to diverse activities: the beaches are located along the southern shores and rocky cliffs. Its clear water are beautiful. The rest for swimming, sailing, and wind-surfing. Near the lake you can visit Gardaland and other amusement and recreational parks: take your kids there. Lake Garda is in northeastern Italy between Venice and Milan.

Lake Bolsena is Italy’s fifth largest lake. Located in the Northern Lazio region between Rome and Tuscany, it is in the crater of an ancient volcano. Bolsena is beautiful also to visit and sleep over: it has a medieval centre with a mastodontic fortress at the top.

Lake Maggiore is another pretty large and popular lake located in northern Italy (namely, north of Milan and west of Lake Como). It is interesting to notice the northern part of Lake Maggiore also belongs to Switzerland. The lake was created by a glacier and it is surrounded by hills in the south. The quiet mountains are in the north, with mild climate all year. Three fab islands are in the centre of the lake and you can visit renting a boat.

Lake Massaciuccoli is an amazing location with a wildlife reserve close to the sea. The small town of Torre del Lago Puccini are pretty close and revolving around tourism from April to September. Go off and visit the villa-museum on the lake: Puccini lived and wrote there a lot of his famous operas. A fantastic and important summer opera festival is in the outdoor theatre in a splendid location: it overlooks the lake.

Lake Trasimeno is in central Italy in the Umbria region near Tuscany, and here you can feel at the centre point of Italy. Trasimeno is Italian largest but non-Alpine lake. It is shallow and this particular lake is pretty famous all over the world and in the history books. Why? The reason has to look up into the books: Trasimeno was the site of the battle between Hannibal and Rome warriors. Historical towns around the lake and the large island, Isola Maggiore, famous for its lace-making is good  visit. One of the most interesting towns around is Castiglione del Lago. It is a medieval centre and a defensive castle close by the lake. Lovely beaches are all around the lake full of tourist from every country and walk of life.

We close the long description the small and cute Lake of Orta: you will find it west of Lake Maggiore in the northern Italian lakes district. In the recent past Lake Orta was a popular location beloved from poets and artists. From the village of Orta San Giulio, really pretty, you can go and enjoy by boat the trip to the one island in the lake. Another lovely and wild escursion will be climbing Sacro Monte (the sacred mountain), where there is a sanctuary which was built in 1591 and lots of small chapels all dedicated to Saint Francis.

Gallipoli: discovering Apulia and the sunny shores

Gallipoli CC BY-SA 2.0, Patrick Nouhailler

Gallipoli is a hidden jewel in the heel of Italy and of Apulia. Where to fly to discovery it? It is in the province of Lecce, on the west coast of the Salento peninsula, so Lecce is a good option.

Really nice is also the Borgo, the new part of the town. But Gallipoli boasts the historical centre built on an island of limestone. This marvellous place is connected to the mainland through an arched bridge. In the old days, Gallipoli was a Messapian centre named Anxa.

Then the Romans came and their domination made the little port a very important trading town: purple dyestuff, produced in the region. Gallipoli fiercely showed an old Greek culture and still nowadays they surface in its religious rites and dialect till the XV century.

After the fall of the Roman empire? Then the Barbarians, the Vandals and even the Goths came over to sack the town, but the Byzantines re-estabilished order.

The Byzantines power was followed by the Suevians and Angionians, and the old Byzantine castle later modified into a fortress show signs of restoration. The last domination was the Spain kingdom coming all the way through to this spectacular shores.

And today what we have to wait for Gallipoli? Sun, sun and sun.

The walls, embankments and towers are still up to embrace the future of a very lovely town, well-known for its incredible beaches and seaside. Important monuments, churches and castles are located here in Gallipoli’s historical centre.

The scenic small island, a kilometre and a half wide, offers a spectacular view, with its narrow alleys and little street mixing as in a maze.

The old buildings show the visitors the treasures of the time, a charming atmosphere and a delicious choice of restaurants with fish-based menu.

Alto Adige for the snowing season

Alto Adige CC BY-NC-ND 2.0, altoadige_suedtirol_southtyrol

The snow paradise exists in Italy and it is called Alto Adige. But the region has also got towns with beautiful bell towers, powerful castles, extraordinary abbeys wich mingle gently with the long rows of vineyards and apple trees. In winter all is covered by  a snowy landscape. The pine woods forests and tiny alpine lakes of the Dolomites mountains, which boast pinkish hues which change to yellow and orange as the sun runs in the sky, are marvellous and peaceful.

Every single tourist loves this itinerary through four valleys of the Alto Adige!!! The valleys are Passiria, Isarco, Pusteria and Aurina.

Passiria are full of  ‘masi’ (estates) with hay lofts, bee hives, outside ovens. Interesting the water mills close to the vineyards on hills, the green fields and pine woods; after a long walk you should try a ‘stube’ (taverna) for a tasty rest.

In Val d’Isarco Vipiteno, a visit will be payed to Bressanone and Novacella. Both towns offer a different landscape, culture and reality, almost fiabesque. The Val Pusteria opens the spaces up, providing fields and woods descending in soft waves. Fantastic monuments you will find in San Lorenzo di Sebato or in Brunico.

From Bolzano to Merano is easy to go and this city has kept the atmosphere of its belonging  to the Ausberg Empire: here in Merano the  European aristocracy gathered for the thermal visiting.Up the Valley Passiria , we will pass San Leonardo to go over the Passo di Monte Giovo, descending to Vipiteno/Sterzing and then to the abbey of Novacella and to Bressanone/Brixen.
The Valley Aurina is the narrowest one and one of the most uncontaminated of the region, and the towns have wooden houses in German style. Here you can hear the sound of the waterfalls and feel the close glaciers in the cold but limpid air. Casere/Kasern is in a conch in the woods, with the glacier peaks. Among them Vetta d’Italia the most Northern point of Italy.

Langhe: heritage, history and wine to discover

Vigne delle Langhe CC BY 2.0, Alessandra Cimatti

The Langhe and its natural treasures are particularly interesting in the fall season: truffle,  hazelnut groves and the vineyards from which superb reds like Barolo,  Barbaresco,  Nebbiolo are born!!

An experience full of sensual lust, wild nature but also regular vines as far as the eye can go! So let us going through the Langhe, a trip which follows the crest of the hills looking for the castles, churches, abbeys, villas, buildings, rural hamlets, groups of houses dating back to medieval times.

Almost 85 kilometres starting from Alba the “capital” of the Langhe and “the city of a hundred towers”,  going trough Diano d’Alba and from here reaching Grinzane Cavour , a little town gathered around its  beautiful castle, aka the headquarters of the Piedmont Regional Cellars. A trip for gourmet, among famous wines, toma (a kind of cheese), meat dish good for a winter night when the wind is outside, blowing and whistling its voice against the vines.

Monforte d’Alba is a stunning viewpoint over the legendary “land of wines” beloved by the Italian writer Cesare Pavese: an interrupted strings of vineyards spread all over, descending graciously the hills, which you go through to get to Barolo, a town well-known for its lovely wine and for other gastronomic specialities like the Brasato al Barolo we already talked about in a previous post.

La Morra is another great viewpoint of the Alps, Monviso and Alta Langa. The seventeenth and eighteenth century cellars of the Benedictine abbey in  San Martino di Marcerasco are worthy to visit as well as Cherasco, a medieval town surrounded by walls in  the shape of a star!!!

The Baroque Bra with the elegant church of Santa Chiara , the parish-church of Sant’Anna and the Traversa Palace and a funny museum: the Toy museum with its rare and unique, pieces on display.

Visiting the shadow of the history: the spooky Italian castles

Porto Venere CC BY-NC-ND 2.0, vpzone

Visiting castles in Italy and the medieval towns around them can be a rewarding part of Italy travel. Castles are evocative of Italy’s past and have fantastic views of the town and surrounding countryside. Some Italian castles have museums inside and some have even been remodeled into hotels where you can spend the night.

Here’s a sampling of Italian castles. Click on the photo to see it larger and click on the link above the photo for more information about the town and castle.

Want to stay in a castle? Check these Castle Hotels in Italy.
Portovenere – Andria Doria Castle
“Portovenere picture, harbor, castle”James Martin, Europe Travel

Portovenere’s Andria Doria Castle dominates the pretty Italian Riviera village of Portovenere. Built by the Genoese between the 12th and 17th centuries, the castle now houses a small art museum open in the summer from 11:00. Narrow medieval streets lead up to the castle where there are fine views of the sea and the picturesque San Pietro Church on the edge of the promontory.

 

La Rocca Albornoziana sits above the hill town of Spoleto in the southern Umbria region. From the castle there are great views of Spoleto, the Bridge of Towers over the gorge, and the surrounding valley. Rocca Albornoziana was built on the foundation of the Roman acropolis in the 14th century and served as the seat for local pontifical governors. It has two grand courtyards, six towers, and some beautiful frescoes. Visiting the castle is only possible on a tour, arranged at the ticket office at the entrance to the castle grounds. Check the schedule for the English tour times.

Castell’Arquato is a picturesque hill town in the Emilia Romagna region of northern Italy topped by its castle – Rocca Viscontea di Castell’Arquato. Inside the castle is a fortress museum with a video about the castle and four rooms about life in the middle ages. You can climb the stairs in the tower for fantastic views of the town spilling down the hill and the surrounding countryside. Although its small, this is one of my favorites and its not overrun with tourists. The town has been the setting for several movies.
Pontremoli – Castello del Piagnaro
“pontremoli, lunigiana castle, tuscany medieval town”James Martin, Europe Travel

Pontremoli is a well-preserved medieval town and principal town of northern Tuscany’s Lunigiana region. Above the town is a restored castle, Castello del Piagnaro, with the Museum of Statue-Menhirs, a museum of prehistoric stele statues or sandstone sculptures that are important prehistoric artifacts. Piagnaro Castle gets its name from the slate slabs, piagne, common in the area. From the castle, there’s a great view of the town and the surrounding hills. The museum and castle are open daily except in winter when it’s closed on Mondays.

 

 

“Sestrieri” and clouds in Venice

St Mark’s Basilica CC BY-NC 2.0, Charles W. Bailey Jr.

Venice and its six Sestieri (districts) are the heart of the old city centre. Let’s go and discover them in a nice and experienced little tour.

Cannaregio, with the Jewish Ghetto is divided in two parts: Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto) and Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto). Curiously the New Ghetto is actually the older one. A very tolerant atmosphere welcomed the Jews in Venice until the beginning of XVI century with the expulsion from Spain (1492). As a consequence, the Ghetto was built and ,while there were catholic celebrations, Jews were forced to remain in the Ghetto. With Napeoleon the gates of the Ghetto were abandoned but during the fascism, Jews in Ghetto were deported. 5 beautiful synagogues are still there, surviving all this difficulties experienced by the Jews.

Castello is the greatest Venetian sestiere with the Arsenal, where together with the Giardini is part of famous Biennale d’arte di Venezia.

Dorsoduro is one of the most comfortable place in the town (and in the world) and hosts the main part of the famous University of Venice.

Santa Croce, with Piazzale Roma and the island of Tronchetto, is next to the Grand Canal that is the main waterway in Venice, and  goes from Piazzale Roma to St. Mark’s Square. It’s over two miles long and features three bridges: Rialto Bridge, Bridge of the Barefoot and Academy Bridge with their scenic views of centuries-old palaces such as Palazzo Grassi, Ca’ Barzizza,Rialto Bridge, Ca’ Pesaro, Ca’ d’Oro, Mocenigo Palace, Venier Palace and  Fondaco dei Turchi among the others.
Last but not least, we have Lido di Venezia, the only area of the old city centre where cars can enter. The Lido di Venezia is also the main land barrier between Venice and the Adriatic Sea and becomes very popular and populated at the end of August/beginning of September because of  the International Venice Film Festival.